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the-south-asian.com March / April 2006 |
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March/April Contents Real Issues South Asian issues News from elsewhere Heritage World
Bank in Conservation Lifestyle
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Page 2 of 2
Lahore Lookout - Tollinton Market Saved (cntd)
Lahore architects: There are two names that stand out in the history of
modern Lahore architecture. Some of Lahore’s most exquisite buildings were
the design of Bhai Ram Singh, who holds the honour of being one of
the first batch of National College of Arts /Mayo School of Arts, Lahore to
have studied under Lockwood Kipling, father of famous Rudyard Kipling in
1875 and also the first native Principal of the college in 1909. The second
name is that of Sir Ganga Ram who started his career as an assistant
engineer in Lahore in 1873 and left behind a grand legacy of buildings that
he donated in charity to the Sir Ganga Ram Trust that still functions to
this day. Also noteworthy is Mr Purdon & Kanhaiya Lal the
architects who designed the King Edward Medical College. Bhai Ram Singh was also involved in the interior design
of the Durbar Room, Osborne House on the Isle of Wight. This building
was built between 1845-51 as a country retreat for Queen Victoria who became
Empress of India in 1876. Unable to visit the sub continent, the choice of
the Indian style for the Durbar Room was the culmination of this proxy
India. Queen Victoria’s third son Arthur, Duke of Connaught, for the
billiard room at Bagshot Park used the style of architecture in the 1880s.
Bhai Ram Singh carved the interior under the supervision of Lockwood Kipling
(father of Rudyard) who was director of the Lahore School of Art. The same
team produced the Durbar Room at Osborne. Tollinton Market History In 1864 as a result of the Industrial revolution of the
1850’s, a movement started in the Punjab for developing local arts and
industries. Subsequently, it was decided to organize the First Punjab
Exhibition in Lahore. To display vast number of exhibits, a special
building, now known as Tollinton Market, was erected in the vicinity of the
famous Anarkali Bazaar. While Mr. Lockwood Kipling, C.I.E. was Curator of
the Museum, the design of the building was prepared by Bhai Ram Singh. The
building was completed in 1894, and all the collections were immediately
transferred to it. Sir Robert Montgomerie opened the exhibition in January
1864. In May 1864 it was converted into a Central Museum. In 1893 the Old
Central Museum was shifted to the new Building. In 1895 Sir Ganga Ram
repaired the Halls for converting it into a Municipal Market. In 1920 the
Market was repaired with alterations and named Tollinton. The Illustrated
London News printed a couple of sketches showing the façade and the interior
of Tollinton market, so important was this exhibition center. The name
Tollinton market was the name of a Lahore District Commissioner. It is not
clear whether the name was Tollinton or Tollington. According to Dr. Ajaz Anwar who is currently the Secretary,
Lahore Conservation Society: " the covered hall with many sky lights drew its design from the Oriental
Bazaaars that still thrive in Aleppo, Damascus, Tehran and Istanbul. …….The
pointed arches and spearheads are Islamic elements and the wooden arches and
stained glass add to its beauty…This market became a prestigious shopping
locale for the elite and because it was under the municipality of the days
of yore, it was spanking clean. Today filth and decay have overwhelmed the
place, because of the poultry being sold there. ….." Battle for Tollinton Market: 1994 – 2000. The Land Mafia [ aka Qabza Group] of Lahore along with the
minions of Lahore Development authority and the Lahore Municipal Corporation
became the [10 storey] Plaza & Parking Lot protagonists. On the conservation
side were the Museum of Lahore, the Pakistan Heritage Foundation , Lahore
Conservation Society and the Ajuman-e Mimaran whose President is Kamil Khan
Mumtaz . Dr Ahmed Hasan Dani was also on the board of the Lahore Museum and
is perhaps the most important & senior archaeologist of Pakistan. Dr. Ajaz
Anwar held a slide show on 30 th October 1994 to "Save Tollinton". In
addition he painted a water color of the Tollinton Market called Gambit All buildings over 75 years old are protected by the
Antiquities act amended in 1992. The details of the Tollinton Market Battle
are documented in a calendar brought out in 1997 by Dr Ajaz Anwar [Professor
at NCA, Lahore] on Tollinton Market. Around 1994, a group of students at the NCA spontaneously
took to the streets and fellow Lahoris joined them in their protest to save
the Tollinton market building. The government eventually decided to save the
Tollinton market building by renovating it and also by donating RS 40
million to carry out the repairs [ actual spent is about Rs 30million]. Memories of Tollinton Market : Scholars & Students from the nearby institutions of Punjab
University, Government College, King Edward Medical College, and the
National College of Arts have always dropped by and served as the
plebian/proletarian customers of Tollinton market. One remembers the
Tangiers Milk Bar and the Capri Restaurant. Shopping by the Begums of Lahore
[BOLs] was also a key economic indicator. Al Fatah stores now near Liberty
Market in Gulberg was situated at the end of the building. The building
housed a Meat & Fish Market in one Hall with high roofs and a Vegetable &
Fruit market Hall at the other end. In 1950’s as kids we would frequent
these places with our shopping mothers. Later in our 1960’s student days,
the favourite snacks were the "Bund Kebabs" with Cokes or a "Hunters Beef"
sandwich. Outside on the verandah were the Magazine shops. During Christmas, turkeys would be sold by the poultry
merchants who eventually [courtesy the foul smell of the chicken refuse ]
managed to destroy the Tollinton market and were moved to Jail Road.
Tollinton Market big shoppers /customers have included the rich and
powerful, from the governors of Punjab to the senior Civil servants and the
feudal gentry. Lahore’s Immortal Heritage: The Struggle continues.
Lahore has learnt to conceal its seductive charms under a
mask of ugly urban plazas, crumbling decrepit, worn out grand old bungalows.
It may not have the honour of being home to a poet of Ghalib’s stature, but
still has its share of eminent artists, writers and poets among them -Indian
Lahorites such as Prakash Tandon, Khushwant Singh, Ved Mehta and Pran
Neville, Amrita Shergill . More recently Dr Abdus Salam, Faiz Ahmed Faiz,
Ustad Daman, Mumtaz Mufti, Manto, Ashfaq Ahmed, Bano Qudsia and so many
others scholars and ordinary citizens have contributed immensely and drunk
deeply from its shaded peepul [Buddhas’s famous Bodhi tree] lined promenades
such as The Mall and other avenues and its famous canal and gardens. Daata
Ganj Baksh and Hazrat Mian Mir [who laid the foundation of the Golden Temple
at Amritsar] lie buried here, beseeched by the prayers of the weak and poor.
Lahore as a city in history is made more romantic, mysterious and attractive
by its famous Anarkali Bazaar, thus named after the famous dancer Anarkali
in the court of Emperor Akbar. Its buildings while less grandiose than Lutyens New Delhi,
nevertheless have a quiet dignity and a human scale of their own. Gautam
Bhatia parodies the new "Bania Gothic" architecture style of Delhi in his
"Punjabi Baroque & other Memories of Achitecture" book. Inspired by "Lootyens",
Bania architecture became the "Loot-maar" style of building. In the Lahore
of today, we are blessed with a unique species of the "Louis the Lahori"
style of carved furniture. Lahore’s buildings and houses have heralded the
golden age of the "white house" style facades and the flotsam of plazas that
could be dubbed as the Chaudary’s Follies. In John Le Carre’s recent 2003 book "Absolute Friends",
Lahore receives mention for its fashionable tailors. Lahore was known to
folks all over British India as the "Paris of the East". In Carre’s book,
the hero is a son of a former British Indian Army Major called Mundy. Mundy
recalls his father’s past days in Lahore whilst going through the hand made
shirts by Ranken & Co., civil and military tailors and outfitters. This
tailoring concern had branches at Calcutta, Simla, Delhi, Rawalpindi, Lahore
and Murree. Established in 1770 in Calcutta, it was among the first
tailoring concern "on Special Appointment" to the Company, and later to the
Governor-General. It is a cold and dry winter this time of the year. Winter
rains are long overdue. This winter of our discontent has been made worse by
the earthquake in north Pakistan with a poor record of earthquake proof
buildings. Lahore’s heritage buildings are dusty but have withstood the test
of time. The air is choked with the fumes of diesel smoke. We look forward
to better times & leaders than the present lot to lead us out of this
cost-benefit approach to life. Kim’s Gun [ "Bhangion Ki Tope" – a Khalsa Misl was called
Bhangis who retrieved the Gun from Abdali’s retreat near Chenab River]
stands quietly near and facing the Tollinton Market. It is a mute witness to
the blood that has been spilt by the Lovers of Lahore. The High Court
Building is the most recent victim to this looting of Lahore’s architectural
splendours. Others on Mcleod Road are being rapidly pulled down. Meanwhile the spirit of Sir Ganga Ram, Bhai Ram Singh, the
great architects & builders of Lahore, still pervades the air of Lahore. The
belief of Lahoris is that it is the spirit of these old scholars and sufi
saints [ Datta Ganj Baksh & Hazrat Mian Mir] that has protected them through
its turbulent history. The saving of Tollinton market is nothing short of a
miracle. The unseen arbiter’s hand [and not a foreign hand] is surely there
in saving it. Perhaps it would be a self-flattering folly to think that the
citizens of Lahore saved the Tollinton market for the future generations.
Its saviours have been the good deeds/karma of its ordinary citizens,
saints, concerned scholars /architects who worked, lived and died here.
Still, one needs to be thankful for these small mercies in these dark times.
The saving of Tollinton Market is a case of one lighted candle in this khaki
dust from the raiders of the lost ark.
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