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the-south-asian.com November 2000 |
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Page 2 of 2
Karakoram Air Safari – a Spiritual
experience By Bilal Khan
Undoubtedly, after the mini-climax of the Nanga Parbat encounter, the ultimate climax is the fly-over towards Concordia – ‘the throne room of the mountain Gods’ – in the Karakoram Range, via the Rakaposhi mountain.
The loneliness of those lofty peaks and the mysterious unknowable places beyond them seem eternally out of reach of experience. And here was I, flying right over the realms I thought were so forbidden! And do they live up to their promise? Without exaggeration, they far surpass it! Those huge expanses of the whitest snow, those vast glaciers streaming away like broad ribbons, those secret nooks and corners, peaks and faces, valleys and ridges – always overwhelming one with the thought that no men have been on this ground, no eyes have seen these places except from the safety and distance like ours. Furthermore, like hidden jewels offered for special viewing, there are cobalt blue lakes surrounded by white expanses that have no names, whose waters are rippled with no angler’s cast or a boat’s wane.
Concordia is the ampitheatre where two mighty glaciers, the Godwin Austin and the upper Baltoro join to form the main Baltoro glacier, which then plunges down the wildest canyon in the world. Concordia is surrounded by high peaks on all sides – the monarch of them all is of course K2. Other peaks in the area that we got a close look at, were Masherbrum – unique with its yellow golden head; Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum IV, Broad peak and the Trango Towers. From the throne room we flew towards the Lord of the throne room – the K2! Unlike Nanga Parbat that stands alone, K2 – the grand monarch- stands guarded by other lofty peaks. Pyramid-like, K2 stands at 28,741 ft. The only local name for K2 is Chogori, which means ‘Great Mountain’.
K2, the highest peak in the Karakoram, is the second highest mountain in the world. Pyramid-like, it stands hidden away in a remote mountain region behind other peaks of similar grandeur. "There is no village within ten days travel of K2. Its steep, difficult approach and harsh weather makes K2 the hardest of the world’s mountains to climb."- Galen Rowell. The first attempt to climb K2 was made in 1902 but was unsuccessful. Americans made most of the subsequent attempts in 1938, 1939 and 1953. In 1954 an Italian team made the first ascent of K2. The next successful attempt was made 21 years later in 1975. More people have died climbing the K2 than have actually climbed it.
As we turned for the return journey, we could see clouds building up in the distance. The show was over and the curtain was coming down. The aircraft flew over the towns of Gilgit and Skardu and we flew past Nanga Parbat once again. The plane finally descended and was soon rolling gently to a stop at Islamabad airport. The entire journey, enlivened by the pilot’s valuable commentary, was nothing less than a spiritual experience.
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