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The South
Asian Life & Times - SALT |
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Contents Feature Heritage People
Book Reviews Kaavad
Traditions of Rajasthan
- exploring
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Darjeeling and Beyond - On leave from the
Forgotten Army By CHARLES EVANS
When Charles Evans died in 1995, he left a
manuscript of his experiences as a 'Doctor in the XIVth Army - Burma 1944
-1945',
the so called Forgotten Army.
In 1998 his wife Denise
secured a publisher - Leo Cooper of Pen and Sword Books - who wanted it
shorter so some sections were cut, including this delightful account of two
weeks ' leave' over New Year 1945, to Darjeeling and beyond in the shadow of
Kangchenjunga. It was published in The Alpine Journal, UK (2005) for the
first time as a special tribute to Charles Evans to commemorate the 50th
Anniversary of the first ascent of that majestic mountain on 25 May 1955 by
the British team led by Charles himself.
SALT, with the kind consent of The Alpine
Journal, UK, is reproducing the article to commemorate the 60th
anniversary of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga. There was a wide choice of places to go on leave.
Some liked the bright lights of the clubs and hotels of Calcutta; others
chose to spend their leave at one of several hill stations where the climate
was good and limited social amenities could be found. My idea was to go to a
hill station and see how close I could get to the big mountains. I chose
Darjeeling partly because it was nearest to Calcutta and partly because the
name had magic associations; it had been the starting point of the early
expeditions to Everest and Kangchenjunga and as far as I knew it was the
only place outside Nepal where the Sherpa people, of whom I had read a good
deal, were to be found. Siliguri, where the mountains began, was the end of
the main line and the Darjeeling Mail from Calcutta went no farther. I
crossed the station platform to what at first looked like a toy train - the
mountain railway to Darjeeling. The squat little steam engines were driven
by hillmen with pillbox caps and Gurkha faces; they had two helpers,
cheerful-looking urchins who sat over the front wheels of the engine, one
each side; their job was to throw handfuls of sand on the line whenever the
rails were slippery on the climb of nearly 8,000 feet to Darjeeling.
Darjeeling was on the crest and western slope of a narrow ridge; only
the small bazaar some way below the ridge was on flat ground. At the
station a pale girl with slanting brown eyes and pleasant features
lifted my heavy kitbag on her back with an easy movement, at the same
time arranging a carrying strap across her forehead. I hesitated to let
her add my rucksack to her load but she made nothing of it and we set
off to walk up The Mall, the main street, to the Windamere Hotel.
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