The delayed and heavy monsoon had shattered the mountain road between Kathmandu and Kodari , high above the Bhote River. A vintage bus with balding tyres brought us to the border post, skidding and sliding over massive landslides. Crossing the Friendship Bridge we entered Tibet. Our group, organised by Shrestha Holidays, comprised of 16 pilgrims and a support staff of cooks and sherpas. In blinding rain we drove to Nyalam, 35km from the Nepal border, through the gorge of the Matsang Tsangpo. Waterfalls hammered us from above and the frightening roar of the river kept us on the edge. Nepalese traders called Nyalam the "Gate to Hell" because the track from the town to the border was so treacherous and terrifying. Sixteen years ago I had driven on this route on a dark, thunderous, rainy night and knew what they meant. However, the Chinese have now built a spanking new road, tarred and secured, that comforts the nerves and allows you to enjoy the magnificent scenery with hundreds of waterfalls falling from the wooded mountains.

Read the article in the print edition
subscribe@the-south-asian.com