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the-south-asian Life & Times          July - September 2009

 

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Gin is ‘In’

By Dev Duggal

About the author – Dev Duggal is an Architect/Planner by profession and Wine/Spirits critic by obsession.

Recovering rapidly from postvodka angst, the new generation gin has arrived – and it is realism at its best. Some have punch, great character and are straight home-runners – or sixers – whatever! Move over vodkas - real martinis can only be made with real gin. The Great Pretender Game of vodka martini is over! Baptised with new, varied, and different botanicals, this group of super and ultra premium gins is bartenders’ delight who are rediscovering the versatility of gin in creating cutting-edge cocktails – or having it straight up!

SALT (aka The South Asian Life & Times) entrusted me with this delightful task of trying out one dozen different gins – some established names and few recent entrants (all London dry gin variety) – and coming up with Top Three. I selected the three that were great every which way – straight up, G & T, or as a martini – they did not fail. For Tonic, I used Schweppes (in a ratio of one part gin to two parts tonic) because of its ease of availability – though I would have preferred the smoother Fever Tree. Results appear at the end of the article.

Having selected the Top Three does not mean we observe a three minute silence for the remaining that did not make it to my list – most were good – some with tonic, some with vermouth, and others on their own. I was, however, looking for names that held up to any eventuality – the rock solid, dependable, brave heart types – the gin-for-all-courses – including Bethpage Black.

Growing up in India meant growing up with gin – a colonial hangover. The British travelled with gin. They even named a military defensive line against the Japanese invasion of Hong Kong after the drink – Gin Drinker’s Line. It is not far from Gin Drinker’s Bay.

 

Read the entire article in the print issue of SALT
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