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the-south-asian.com January 2005 |
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January
2005 Archaeology
Fashion
Designers Books Between
Heaven and Hell
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FASHION DESIGNERS - RE-DESIGNING THEIR FUTURE by Mukesh Khosla
Leading Indian designers are fast learning how to use their fame and fortune to become lifestyle brands instead of just names in fashion circles. The Indian fashion scene is
undergoing a new and exciting makeover. Leading designers, taking a leaf
from their western counterparts, are investing huge sums of money into
diverse fields in a bid to become brands instead of just names in the
fashion world. Though it may be a complete departure from fashions these designers are displaying excellent entrepreneurial skills in their new businesses. As Rodericks explains, " The diversification gives you the confidence that if your designs stop clicking there is something else equally lucrative waiting for your full time attention."
Take for instance leading designer Raghvendra Rathore. Besides creating trendy, retro-inspired clothes for the likes of Selfridges of London, this scion of the royal family of Jodhpur is manufacturing chocolates for the high premium food market. Les Chocolats de Jodhpur, which is one of the first Indian designer chocolates, are being marketed through exclusive outlets in all big cities. Rathore, a graduate from the prestigious Parson’s College of New York says there’s export demand as well and test marketing in some European cities have yielded good results. What’s the reason behind the shift? " It is an investment for the future. Such concepts are very popular in the west and India too is following suit. But I am not going to stop at chocolates, I want the Rathore brand to expand into a complete range of lifestyle ideas."
So
would Rohit Bal, the poster boy of Indian fashion industry who has ventured
into accessories and has designed the latest solid gold jewellery watches
from Titan. Called the Nebula Rohit Bal Collection these watches
represent a fusion of the intricate art of the past with contemporary
precision technology. The collection, says Bal, is a flamboyant style
statement, designed to complement a premium wardrobe. Adds Bijou Kurien COO
(Watches) Titan Industries Ltd., "Rohit Bal’s creations reflect grandeur and
glamour. The collection blends luxury time-wear with designer label, to
create an irresistible offering for the Indian customer." Says Bal, " I
don’t want to limit myself only to designing clothes that’s why I have
started to experiment. This new watch collection reflects the rich artistic
heritage of India. These 18-carat watches are pieces of art worn on the
wrist---classic and modern." Rohit Bal may be new to accessories but another leading designer Ravi Bajaj, is an old hand at it. Along with his exquisite couture, Bajaj has on offer everything from ties and belts to shoes and undergarments. Says he, "As long as the diversification is in a related area it is natural and positive progression. However if it is in an untested field then it could be detrimental to growth."
But that’s exactly what Bajaj has gone and done. He has opened Fashion Café at his three-storyed showroom in Delhi’s upmarket Greater Kailash where he’ll be dishing out more than just his range of fashion wear. Says Bajaj, " Food is part of lifestyle just as fashion is and this offers me an opportunity to provide my clients a place for unwinding after shopping. I’ve set it up to increase the foot falls and my brand extension." When designer Bina Ramani opened her Tamarind Court near Delhi’s Qutub Minar little did she realize that eateries would catch the fancy of designers in a big way. The shutting down of Ramani’s restaurant after the murder of model Jessica Lal has not dampened designers’ desire to open restaurants. Designer J J Valaya Cafe Ella has been doing booming business serving South European cuisine and blues music at his lifestyle store in a Chattarpur farm on the outskirts of Delhi. Apart from food and fashionable clothes, Valaya has on offer a whole range of luxury products which include home furnishings, furniture, textiles, tapestries and fabrics. Leading couturier Wedall Rodricks who first put out a line of minimalist jewellery now owns the swank Aubergine, in the Goan village of Arpora. " This is the first cigar bar of India," says the proud designer who is also busy setting up a museum of Goa's costume history in collaboration with the Portugese organization, Fundacao Oriente. From setting up a museum to writing is but a small step on the culture path. If Rodricks is busy cataloguing Goan costume history, Mumbai-based designer Payal Jain has penned a book Fashion Studies specifically for the students of Class XI, who have opted for fashion-designing course as a part of their CBSE curriculum. "I authored the book when the CBSE introduced fashion designing as a subject and there wasn’t any text book. So I took it up as a challenge," says Payal who will soon be writing another book for Class XII. " It’s a lot of hard work. It took me five months to write the first one. I took it up as a challenge. Writing can be very rewarding." Not just writing even hosting TV shows is a rewarding diversion. The trend started in 1997 with Suneet Varma's Style Gurus on Star Plus that claimed to bridge the east-west divide in fashions. A number of designers have followed suit. Manish Malhotra is hosting a show on Zoom channel. Rohit Bal and Malini Ramani have gone a step further taking a shot at the silver screen with cameo’s in Boom and Hum Tum respectively .
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